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Jack London Square: The Bay Area’s low-key, blue collar waterfront attraction in Oakland
HISTORIC DIVE BAR
heinold
The inside of Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon. The pub is in a building originally fashioned in 1880 from the remnants of an old whaling ship at the foot of Webster Street where it still sits today.

OAKLAND — An antidote to the expensive and crowded top tourist trap in San Francisco —Pier 39 — can be fittingly found in Oakland in a place named for a true blue collar writer, Jack London Square.

It isn’t located next to the world famous Fisherman’s Wharf with a view of the Golden Gate and Alcatraz Island with Coit Tower overlooking it.

But it is located next to the only real working port left in the Bay Area — the Port of Oakland — with a view of the futuristic Oakland-to-Treasure Island Bay Bridge segment as well as direct access to the Bay Trail that links Oakland with 47 other cities around the bay.

And while it isn’t on San Francisco Bay proper, it does open up to the Oakland/Alameda estuary.

Jack London Square isn’t Pier 39, which is exactly the point.

It is a low-key, family-style gathering place.

It’s a great place to people watch, take in the smells and views of the bay, shop, dine, stroll and enjoy entertainment.

It has a host of free events throughout the year.

Best of all, it’s one of the easiest day trips to the “inner bay” that can deliver a bit or urban feel and is relatively easy to access from a freeway.

It also has the prerequisite palm trees. (Think the Embarcadero in San Francisco. I get that people associate the ocean with palm trees in California but come on; this is Northern California, not Venice Beach or San Clemente.)

Jack London — for those not familiar with him — is a hometown boy who grew up in Oakland in the late 19th century and became one of the first Americans to earn a living as an author.

His famous works include “Call of the Wild.” The square played a role in shaping London as well as providing inspiration for some of his characters.

A historic dive bar

That is why one of the oldest — and arguably the most historic — dive bar in the Bay Area can be found along Jack London Square in the form of Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon.

The pub is in a building originally fashioned in 1880 from the remnants of an old whaling ship at the foot of Webster Street where it still sits today.

It was used as a bunkhouse for workers of nearby oyster beds until 1883 when Johnny Heinhold bought it for $100 and converted it into a saloon. The reference to “first and last chance” what’s its location to two points: The nearby ferry between Oakland and Alameda (where it was illegal to drink) and the Oakland Port with sailors departing and arriving from long trips.

As a schoolboy, London would study at the bar’s tables that remain in place today. There is even a photo taken in 1886 of London as a young teen hunched over a book with elbows on the table and hands holding his head.

When he told Heinhold as a 17-year-old he was planning to attend the University of California at Berkeley and pursue a career in writing, the saloon owner loaned him the money for tuition.

London made it through just one year of higher education.

Heinhold introduced London to sailors and adventurers that passed through the saloon. Those meetings would influence his writings as London would spend evenings listening to the patrons and gathering ideas that would later produce such classics as “The Sea Wolf” and “John Barkleycorn.”

The “drinks only” saloon is open Monday from 3 to 9-ish p.m., Tuesday and Wednesday from noon to 9-ish p.m., Thursday, Friday and Saturday from noon to 9ish p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9ish p.m.

Go aboard FDR’s

Presidential yacht

President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s yacht, known as the USS Potomac and dubbed “The Floating White House” from 1936 to 1945, is docked at Jack London Square.

The USS Potomac is a National Historic Landmark and the only presidential yacht restored and still operating in the United States.

You can cruise the scenic waters of San Francisco Bay on the Potomac starting April 26.

Two hour cruises for adults are $74.24. A three-hour cruise with lunch is $107.24.

Bookings are now open at uspotomac.org where you can also book dockside tours of the boat for $21.84.

Prices for the cruise and tour are less for children.

While cruising on the Potomac, you'll enjoy picturesque views of the San Francisco skyline and waterfront.

The yacht cruises by lighthouses, islands, and under bridges, while you hear about the rich history of surrounding landmarks and the impacts FDR's post — Depression Era New Deal programs had on the Bay Area.

Commissioned in 1934, the ship was secured and moved to Oakland where the 165-foot-long vessel underwent a $5 million, 12-year restoration to become a National Historic Landmark.

Since its rebab was completed, more than 260,000 people have boarded and sailed on the yacht.

A lighthouse ship

is one of 12 left

The Lightship RELIEF — WLV 605 is berthed next to Roosevelt’s restored yacht.

It is one of only 12 of the original 174 lightships still in existence that worked the coasts along the Pacific and Atlantic oceans as well as the Gulf of Mexico from 1820 to 1983 to aid in navigation such as showing the entrance to a harbor or to warn of dangerous underwater obstructions such as reefs.

Lightships were used where it was impossible to build lighthouses.

Lightship tours are by appointment. Email ahead to schedule your visit at: lv605@uslhs.org, or call (510) 992-3545.

Dining, stores &

other options

There are 12 restaurants on Jack London Square in addition to several stores

There are three parking garages and four parking lots that are fee-based.

The Bay Trail has a section starting at Jack London Square that goes along the waterfront for about 2.5 miles.

This paved, off-road trail gives a scenic view of the Bay and ends at Union Point Park. At this point, you can turn around and celebrate your cycling or hiking afternoon at a Jack London Square restaurant.

For more information about Jack London Square go to www.jacklondonsquare.com

You will find information about dining options, stores, and free events such as the summer music series.

To reach Jack London Square on the Oakland waterfront from Manteca, it is 65 miles (1 hour 5 minute travel time). Head over the Altamont Pass taking I-580 to I-880 and head north. Take exit 41B and drive west to Washington Street.

There is little doubt Jack London Square is a low-key outing as opposed to Pier 39 across the bay. That said, it is a nice little day trip that can give you a somewhat different view of the Bay Area.

To contact Dennis Wyatt, email dwyatt@mantecabulletin.com